Luxor

Luxor stands on the site of ancient Thebes, Egypt's religious capital for much of the New Kingdom. The Nile splits the city in two: the east bank, associated with the living, holds the great temples of Amun; the west bank, associated with the dead, holds the royal necropolis and the mortuary temples.

On the east bank, the Karnak complex grew over almost two thousand years, and its hypostyle hall has 134 columns. About three kilometres south, Luxor Temple is linked to Karnak by the Avenue of Sphinxes, reopened to visitors in 2021.

To reach the west bank, take the local ferry, a motorboat or the bridge south of town. There you will find the Valley of the Kings, with the rock-cut tombs of New Kingdom pharaohs, Hatshepsut's temple at Deir el-Bahari, the Colossi of Memnon and the Valley of the Queens.

Early morning is a comfortable time for sightseeing, especially on the west bank. Keep the late afternoon for Luxor Temple, which is lit up after sunset, or for a felucca ride.

Two or three days cover the essentials of both banks. Luxor is also the usual starting point for Nile cruises to Aswan, which stop at Edfu and Kom Ombo on the way.